MT Ama Dablam
TREK DIFFICULTY
Easy
TREK DURATION
25 to 30 Days
HIGHEST ALTITUDE
6,812 meters (22,349 feet)
GROUP SIZE
12
TREK DISTANCE
70-80 km
BASECAMP
Nepal
BEST TIME
(September to November) - (April to May)
PICKUP POINT
Kathmandu | Nepal
MT. Ama Dablam: Nepal’s Crown Jewel of Technical Climbing
Mount Ama Dablam is one of the most spectacular and challenging climbs, which is located in the Khumbu Region (Everest) of Nepal. With its distinctively steep pyramid shape and beautiful ridges, Ama Dablam resembles the Matterhorn in the Alps, but it stands alone as a great climbing achievement in its own right, requiring advanced climbing skills as well as experience at high altitudes and tremendous physical and mental capacity.
Before climbing, participants will start their expedition with a trek through the famous Sherpa villages (Namche Bazaar, Pangboche) and towards the base camp for Mount Ama Dablam, located on the southwest ridge of the mountain. Climbers must fix ropes, negotiate ridges that are subject to vertical rock and ice, and withstand the harsh conditions of Camp I and above.
Climbers will be challenged as they navigate the narrow ridges, traverse the hanging seracs, and cross the famous Dablam (a hanging glacier), which is also the source of the name for the mountain. All of these challenges require precision, teamwork,k and careful acclimation during the ascent.
Higher base camps on Ama Dablam provide climbers with stunning panoramic views of the peaks of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse, as well as the entire Khumbu Valley below. Climbers who ascend the mountain will encounter an extremely steep "summit push" that has much exposure and commitment.
Therefore, this route is considered a desirable climb for more experienced alpine climbers. Due to its technical difficulty, most expeditions to Ama Dablam are geared towards climbers who have achieved a minimum elevation of 6,000 m or higher and possess strong skills in ice climbing, ropework, and rock climbing.
Climbers should expect weather patterns to be stable and have fewer hazards during their ascent of the highest peaks in the Himalayas, mainly in the autumn (September–November) and spring (April–May). In conclusion, this peak offers not just a summit but a once-in-a-lifetime alpine climbing adventure and is often regarded as a significant accomplishment in Himalayan mountaineering.
Day 1: Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding
Fly to Lukla and begin trekking through Sherpa villages to Phakding.
Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Ascend along the Dudh Koshi River and climb to the Sherpa capital, Namche Bazaar.
Day 3: Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar
Acclimatisation is important in Namche Bazaar, so you will do short hikes and rest days.
Day 4: Namche Bazaar to Pangboche
Trek through alpine landscapes with views of Ama Dablam dominating the skyline.
Day 5: Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Short trek to base camp, set beneath the dramatic southwest ridge.
Day 6: Day 18: Climbing Period (Rotation & Acclimatization)
Establish Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III through multiple rotations; technical climbing on rock, ice, and snow.
Day 7: Day 19: Summit Push (6,812 m) and Descent to Camp II
Early morning trek to the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m) and descent back to Camp II (5,320 m).
Day 8: Day 20: Descend to Base Camp
Return safely to the Base Camp after completing the Summit Day.
Day 9: Day 21: Base Camp to Namche Bazaar
Trek back to Namche, including Pangboche along the way.
Day 10: Day 22: Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Last day of the trek, back to Lukla.
Day 11: Day 23: Lukla to Kathmandu
Fly back to Kathmandu, marking the end of the expedition.
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