Halfway To Fachukandi But Completed Phulara Ridge

I’m back with another trek story. Last time, I shared my experience from Kuari Pass. This time, it’s about my first attempt at the Fachukandi Pass trek.

I had been wishing for a while to get the chance to do this trail, and one evening the message came — you’re leading the Fachukandi trek with my senior trek leader Mukesh Rana. I couldn’t stop smiling. After all the prep, the next morning our team, along with the trekkers, left from Dehradun for Sankri.

Let me tell you where the Fachukandi Pass is and what it is like. The trek starts in Sankri. This is a small village where many popular trails begin in Uttarakhand. The path for this trek starts just above our Himalaya Shelter guest house. Sankri is in the Garhwal Himalayas of India.

The Fachukandi Pass trek is offbeat. Not many people go there. It has a good mix of quiet forests and huge mountain views. It is like doing three treks in one. You walk the Phulara Ridge, see Saru Tal, and cross the Fachukandi Pass. The highest point is about 14,290 feet.

Now lets see our whole journey, how it gets turned, and ends.

Fachukandi Fever

We picked up the trekkers on day one and left for Sankri. Their excitement made me excited too. They kept asking questions about the whole drive. Their laughter was nice to hear.

We drove past Mussoorie. First, they asked about the rivers. They saw the Yamuna, then where it meets the Tons River. Later, they saw where the Rupin and Supin rivers meet to form the Tons. We drove through villages and stopped in Purola for lunch. We ate Gharwali thali.

We got to Purola around 3 PM. Cool air came in the window. It felt fresh. We saw the mountain farms, all golden brown now. Our vehicle drove through roads covered in pine trees. Sunlight came softly through the trees, hitting the golden leaves as they fell. It was quiet. You could just hear the wind.

We reached Sankri as the sun was setting. Our staff gave everyone tea and snacks. The long drive had made them tired, but their energy was still good. It was very chilly. I told them this was just the start. The real cold would come tomorrow. We made a bonfire for them.

They ate dinner. Then my senior trek leader and I introduced ourselves. We told them about the start of the Fachu kandi trek the next day. We also gave them some things to keep in mind. After that, it was time for bed.

It was October 25th. Days were short, and the morning was very chilly with no sunlight. Our team and the trekkers started getting ready. After about an hour, the sun came up. The light felt warm. Autumn mornings feel special; you just have to be there.

After breakfast, we took some group photos. We started the trek right from the guest house. Sadly, two of our eleven trekkers had to quit right there because of family stuff. Everyone felt bad, but we knew we had to move on. My senior was leading the way. Our advance cook, trek manager, and mule boy were all ready with the gear.

We kept walking and talking more with the group. I learned that one trekker had done over twenty trips. Others had done a few, and some were first-timers. Leading a group with such different experience levels was a real challenge. The two first-time women shared how they felt just looking at the huge mountains.

After a short climb, we saw views of Swaragarohini and the Har ki Dun valley. We walked four kilometers and reached Juda ka Talab. This is a popular campsite for the Kedarkantha trek. From here, one path goes to Kedarkantha. The left path goes toward Bhojgadi, our campsite for the night.

The trail went through beautiful pine, oak, and deodar forests. The smell of pine cones was amazing. Insects buzzed all around. We also saw some Himalaya redstart birds. After a steep, four-kilometer climb, we finally reached our first campsite, Bhojgadi.

Our advance team had already set up the camp. Everyone had tea and snacks after the long hike. My senior, Mukesh sir, told everyone to bundle up since it was cold. After they ate warm food, I checked their oxygen and pulse readings. Mukesh sir explained the next day’s walk and plan. Later, the kitchen staff and I ate dinner. We talked and laughed, then went to sleep. The sky was very clear, and the stars looked close.

Again I woke up before dawn. But outside it was frost all around on meadows. As we prepared tea, the sun also came. I splashed cold water on my face. Literally it was chilly but thrilling. Our cook prepared morning breakfast. 

After all packing and breakfast we started moving towards Taloti. The autumn mornings have different energy as sunlight touches green grass and awakens it. The frost shines like crystals and the cold face becomes warm. The sky has a deep blue color and the light feels in the sky like you can look endlessly. Each peak looks very clear. 

As we climbed a little from Bhojagadi, we were on Phulara ridge, now we were walking on a ridge and we got a 180 degree view of mountains. Our trekkers got to see Har ki dun valley, Kedarkantha top, Swaragarohini massif, Black peak, Bandarpunchh and the thin line of Dhauladhar range. We continued the walk but today’s hike was long. It was now getting challenging for beginners. As the altitude of the walk was getting tough still everyone was motivated. But, after the lunch and mid way things started aparting, our clients' motivation got down and that is natural while it happens. Our team tried to motivate them. 

We reached the Pushtara camp at Dusk. All thanks to our advanced team they all set up everything. Then, my senior informed our team that they don’t want to continue the journey. We also understood their perspective. They are right. It was very cold already and lots of snow was ahead. It was now very difficult and now they want to quit. The good thing is that if it was not Fachukandi but it was now Phulara summit. Something better than nothing.

The good things: no one is sad and unsatisfied. They had satisfaction that they did something, and actually they did a lot. They gained a maximum altitude of 3,749 m. 

On day 4 we spend our time on Pushtara and Lower Pushtara. Everyone had a sunbath and enjoyed the view and relaxed. As everyone has a motive to trek to stay close to mountains so on that day they spend all day like that. 

On day 5 after a deep descent, we headed to Taluka and reached Sankri. At dinner time we spent time with them, we talked and laughed.  The next day left with another memory and again attachment and letting go.

Actually, the Fachukandi Pass is not a winter trek. It can’t be done in winter. It is a spring, summer and autumn trek.  But this time the winter arrived early. Climate change is the main factor in changing plans. 

The Fachu kandi trek is not that easy. It is a moderate-level trek. If you want to do this trek successfully, you need to be physically or get prepared for two of months of the trek. It helps you to walk smoothly and fight the bad weather. Before doing any trek, you need to be mentally prepared, which plays a vital role.

The best time to do the Fachukandi trek is May to June and September to November. It is an ideal time to do the Fachukandi Pass trek. It is not recommended to eat it in winter and the monsoon.

Q1. Who can do the Fachukandi pass trek? It is obviously an experience one can do, and beginners also can do but you need to prepare yourself for 2 months for a successful summit.

Q2. How many days it takes to complete the Fachukandi Pass trek? It takes a total of 7 nights and 8 days to complete the Fachukandi pass trek.

Q3.  What is the highest altitude of Fachu kandi Pass trek? The maximum altitude of the Fachukandi Pass trek is 4,536 meters.

Q4. What are the three treks we do in one Fachukandi trek? The Fachukandi Pass trek actually gives you the experience of three beautiful routes in a single trek. During this trek, you cross through trails that connect the Phulara Ridge, Pushtara Bugyal,  Sarutal and Fachukandi Pass. 

So, when you complete the Fachu kandi Pass trek, it’s like doing three treks in one — you walk through meadows, forests, and a stunning ridge trail, all in a single route.