I am an assistant trek leader at Himalaya Shelter. I have led so many treks to Har ki dun, Dayara Bugyal, Dodital, and Gaumukh Tapovan. Also, I do like to write about every experience of my adventure. So, my recent adventure was a trek to Kuari Pass. I led a small group of five foreigners who are from different countries under the senior trek leader.
I was in the office when I got the call. I was assigned field duty and had to leave for the trek the next morning. I had been on a two-month break, so the sudden change was a surprise. Then at the last moment Senior and I did all the preparation logistics and rationing for the trek.
You always need to read up on a trek first.
I read about Kuari Pass before bed. It sits in the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve in Uttarakhand, India. We had booked our stay in Joshimath, which is in the Chamoli district. But the actual trek starts from Tugasi village, about 8 km away.
It takes 6 days or 5 days with two travelling days and three trekking days. The total trekking distance is 28 km with the highest elevation at 12500 ft.
This trek offers views of many giant mountains of India, such as Nanda Devi, Trishul, Kamet, Hathi Parvat, Guari Parvat, and Mana, and the Nandadevi Goddess-like mountain rules the trek and offers the opportunity to walk on the mountain ridge and alpine meadows of Gorson Bugyal.
The trek also has some history, it is famous with the title of “Lord Curzon Trail.” In 1905, Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, explored the Kuari Pass Trek. After that it is known by his name, the Lord Curzon Trail.
We picked up our group from Rishikesh. After introducing each other, we started our drive towards our destinations. The guys we met were very cool. We talked and enjoyed ourselves.
While driving, the river Ganga was with us till Nandaprayag. The journey passes through four prayags out of five: Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaparyag, and Nandaprayag. Which have spiritual significance.
First comes Devprayag, where we witness the confluence of the Alknanda and Bhagirathi rivers that form the Ganga. The turquoise Alknanda and brown Bhagirathi confluence feels very deep. Then Rudraparyag comes, where we witness the confluence of the rivers Mandakini and Alaknanda. And had a lunch break in Rudraprayag. Then in Karnaprayag, the Pindar River with the Alknanda and the Nandakini with the Alknanda in Nandaprayag.
It was already dusk, and we reached Joshimath. We stayed in the Village Connection homestay. We allot rooms to our clients. After dinner, my senior and I briefed about the next day of the trek. Seeing excitement on the trekker's face and happiness for the next day was making me happy.
I don't know why whenever I am on a mountain, I wake up at dawn. An interesting thing is that trekkers already wake up before me and do exercise. I also joined them. The laughter and joy with new people is a different level of thrill.
After having a heavy breakfast. We started to drive to Tugasi, it was just a 7-8 km drive, but the landscapes, mountain villages, mountain farms, and sunshine everywhere were soul-touching. From Tugasi we started trekking. Nitin sir, our trek leader, was taking the lead, and I was covering from behind. As I went for the first time, I didn't know the trails.
The trail passes through villages after the forest of oaks and rhododendron. The trail has continued to ascend, which was giving a challenge to trekkers' lungs. The sun hit the deep forest. The slow wind moved the dry, golden leaves, and the whole place felt like a simple, perfect fairytale.
After a five- to six-km hike, we reached Khullera campsite. Our team set up the campsite, pitched all the tents, and welcomed our clients with refreshing juice. The campsite area is the most beautiful part of the trek. It is surrounded by huge mountains, but the twist is we got to see clouds only, not any snow-covered mountains, but I knew what was behind that cloud. But the senior leader even better explained all the peaks to me and our trekkers.
We served them snacks and soup in the evening, and then our cook prepared dinner for them. We all had dinner, and my senior briefed them for the next day. Everyone went to sleep. After the last look at the campsite area, I and the senior also went to sleep.
After having breakfast and packing all the tents, we all are set to leave for the summit. We started our walk after a small steep climb, a walk opened on a ridge. After continuing to walk on the ridge, we reached Jhandi Top, from where you can see Pangarchulla Peak. If you walk on the left side, you will go to Pangarchulla, and the right side goes to Kuari Pass. And the trail from Khullera to Kuari Pass summit is Lord Curzon Trail.
Our clients are very good at walking, in just a two-hour walk, they reach the summit. But unfortunately they all got clouds to see in the summit view. But still had the happiness of a successful summit. We take group photographs and cheer up. Stayed at the summit for a while to soak it in completely.
We left for the next campsite, Taali, after a long ridge walk. The ridge was looking very fluffy with long grass, all in golden and green colors. Then we made a long descent and reached the campsite that is in the woods. All were very happy on the campsite. Laughter and joy filled the campsite.
Last but not least, we started from Taali Lake. There are two paths from Taali Lake, don’t go on the right side. The way is from above Taali Lake. It is open in Gorson Bugyal, with a wide view of the mountain. Today our luck was a little good. We only got a small glimpse of Trishul and Nandadevi. Here in front of them we rested for one hour to catch more glimpses. After walking through meadows, we passed from oak forest and descended down in Auli. Our vehicle was already waiting for us, from Auli we moved again to Joshimath.
After coming back from the hike, everyone was relaxed, they had dinner, as they were tired, and all slept early.
The drive from Joshimath to Rishikesh is very long, so everyone gets up early. Before leaving, we presented them with a certificate for successfully completing the trek and had group pictures.
Now there’s silence in the vehicle as everyone is tired. How interesting that when we travel, we feel joy and excitement. But the trip ends, and leaving brings some sadness. This is okay, because we also get a peaceful feeling from letting that place go.
After a long drive, we dropped them off in Rishikesh. With goodbyes and wishes, the journey ends.
I led many groups in the past months. I have had the opportunity to meet individuals from diverse cultures, origins, and countries. But this belonging never makes any difference. We talked about mountains, they taught us something, and we taught something to them. In four or five days, small attachments, then detachment. Nothing but memories always remain in cameras, in some incidents that live forever.
Tanisha Chauhan
07 Oct 2025
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