Day 5 of Bali Pass Trek: Journey to the Basecamp

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12th June 2024 – Wednesday 

Bali Pass : Day 0, reaching Dehradun
Bali Pass : Day 1, arriving in Sankri from Dehradun
Bali Pass : Day 2, journey to Seema from Sankri
Bali Pass : Day 3, journey to Waterfall Camp
Bali Pass : Day 4, journey to Ruinsara Lake

As the sun ascended above the distant horizon, we began the day with a hot cup of lemon tea.

The mountain weather began establishing its presence and the warm cup brought solace in the chilling air that was surrounding us.

Ruinsara Campsite
Breakfast at Ruinsara Campsite

We began the journey through the green meadows but soon, a white patch that had been tainted brown due to mud began to coat the ground. 

As I put a foot on the soft snow below a sense of wonder arose within. The new terrain felt like walking on a different planet and the chilly wind that accompanied it, felt surreal.

The surrounding peaks that were completely snow covered became closer and closer and we would periodically take a 360 degree look around to see the peaks. The sheer massive altitudes and abundance of the mountains ignited a sense of insignificance for oneself. Standing among these mighty giants you realise what a tiny spec on an ant you are. 

Heading to the Bali Pass Basecamp
Heading to the Bali Pass Basecamp
steep ascent on the bali pass trek
A steep ascent while capturing a view of Mount Swargarohini (20,512 feet)

As we traversed the icy ground there were certain patches of fresh snow that would sink your foot in the moment you put a step on it. We had to sprint across with cautionary footsteps  to prevent losing balance and tripping over the snow. 

We walked and walked, until came the last stretch. The formidable Narma Khandi, or as Suresh later called it, ‘The fatality ridge’. 

And oh boy, did that ridge live up to its name. 

It was a sequence of three ridges that were at a steep 70 degree incline yet naturally paved by unstable fragments of rock . 

This made walking a hell of a task, as one slip would mean a fall to death. 

Suresh helped me by holding my hand and taking steps while counting to 10 after which we would temporarily halt to catch our breaths. It was an adrenaline rush and one of the most challenging things I have done physically. 

towards the basecamp
Walking over a ridge heading to the Bali Pass Basecamp
a short break on the way
A short break on the way
Just about to reach the basecamp
Just about to reach the basecamp
A short break
A short break

Three ridges and two hours later, the sight of the distant tents crossed our eyes. However what was surprising and rather painful to hear was that it didn’t matter if the camp was just a kilometre away, the journey would still take more than an hour because of the challenging terrain ahead and the pace of our walk. 

Campsite in the distance. So near, yet so far away..
Campsite in the distance. So near, yet so far away..

However, we kept moving and finally reached campsite. By this time I was down to my very last drop of energy and I fell asleep the moment I closed the zip of the tent. 

I was so exhausted that I didn’t even have the energy to get up and eat food. So I went inside the tent half sulking and wrapped inside the sleeping bag. Our tent was literally on a pile of snow and the cold was akin to that of a freezer. 

The night became colder and the bone chilling winds made even sitting upright just downright agonising. The temperature had dropped to sub zero and the body lotion and lip balm that I had brought with me to ease the dry skin was frozen solid, rendering it absolutely useless. 

At 12 am I suddenly woke up with the urge to pee. It was a rather inconvenient timing as it meant walking out into the natural freezer and relieving myself inside one of the toilet tents that had been set up for us to use. 

But hey, nature’s calling has never been one to be ignored, so I woke up my father from his sleep and asked him to accompany me outside and wait. As I finished my business and returned, shivering in the freezing cold, I looked back at my father who was standing in front of our tent.

‘Look up’ he said.

Like tiny specs of diamonds, the starry night above was a sight of astonishing beauty. 

Numerous stars in the magnitude of uncountable, sprinkled across the dark purple sky, with new ones appearing, the longer you looked. 

Beyond the silhouette of the mountains, a dust like conglomeration of stars and clouds appeared before my eyes. The Milky Way stood in all its glory, a sight that was beyond anything I could fathom. Even in the freezing cold, a feeling of utter astonishment and appreciation of the universe really crept into me at that moment. 

The Milky Way during the night on bali pass trek
The Milky Way

But not for long , as the chilling winds brushed against my face, and we returned back into the warm sleeping bag inside our little tent.

The next morning we were to reach the summit. The moment was a mere four hours away as we would be waking up at 4 am to climb the final stretch of the Bali Pass trek.

Bali Pass : Day 6, a chilling ascent, summit triumph, and a snowy descent
Last Day of Bali Pass Trek: An Epic Himalayan Adventure in 2024