My First Himalayan Trek to Har ki Dun- Unforgettable Experience into the Heart of UttarakhandMy Unforgettable Experience into the Heart of Uttarakhand

First Himalayan Trek to Har ki Dun-
I am an avid trekker of the Sahyadris but had long yearned to trek in the Himalayas as well. Freed from corporate constraints while between jobs, this calling was finally answered. You could melodramatically say that the Gods themselves beckoned me to their abode – Har Ki Dun trek – the valley of Gods.

Trekking on different terrain and in different conditions came with its own learning curve. With reality checks and goof-ups interspersed throughout the trek, the mountains humbled me in their inimitable and subtle way and also bestowed upon me a new perspective and outlook.

Reaching the Base Camp:

Various thoughts flowed along with the Tons that were by our side on the journey from Mussourie to Sankri, our base camp. Lack of fulfilment from the earlier job, squabbles with friends and uncertainty about what lay ahead. However, the infectious jolliness of a Gujarati family of trek mates snapped me out of such morose contemplations. Resolving to ruminate over such commonplace and perennial inflictions later, I drew an upward arc on my face and decided that I shall only enjoy the trek. 

I had casually dismissed the fitness recommendations. Having prior trekking experience and habitually going on long walks, I was (over-)confident that I will be able to trek with ease. Also, I had listened intently to my relative, the only source I had relied upon to gather information about trekking in the Himalayas, and followed him to the T. What could possibly go wrong? All will be well.

Just then I realized that I had forgotten my fleece jacket in Mussoorie! That was a goof-up number one. I decided to bite the bullet and brave the cold with just my thermals, a woollen jacket and a windcheater. I will manage, I determined.

We caught up with other trek mates on reaching Sankri, had our briefing session and retired to bed excitedly. Aunty from the Gandhi family was a physiotherapist. On learning that I am not hiring a porter, she asked with some concern as to whether I will be able to carry my own bag. I was slightly confused and affronted at her doubt of my capability. But I shrugged it off, told her that yes I will haul my own luggage, and went to sleep in happy anticipation. My dream was finally coming true the next day.

Days 1 and 2: Taluka to Chilud Ghat and Chilud Ghat to HKD

And what a fine and fun start it was to the trek! The driver indulgingly allowed us to travel from Sankri to Taluka on the top of his jeep! Giggling at every jolt and turn and sparring with leaves of overhead trees, we reached the starting point of our trek. River Supin welcomed us and seemingly escorted us onto the trail. It walked alongside us for most of the part. We spied village Osla on the opposite side. We would be visiting it on our way back. 

We climbed natural stairs of boulders, trudged through green forests, crossed bridges, witnessed a number of charming mini-waterfalls and played with sheep. The chattering and excitement soon wore off. A sense of solemnity and calm took over. As our breathing became more laborious, it made us focus deeply on every step we took and soak in the surroundings.

Another sensation also slowly crept up on me – a backache! While I continued to remain enchanted by the beauty I witnessed, the pain was like an unignorably annoying pebble in the shoe. These first two days were mostly an ascent. I kept pitifully asking the guides “chadhai aur kitni hai?”. Like every mountain guide, they always said, “bas aur thoda sa hi”. 

In every adventure activity you undertake, at some point, a small voice admonishingly questions the reason for undertaking such an endeavour in the first place. How comfortable and pain-free I would have been had I just stayed at home, binge-watching a TV show. Another reality check had hit me. My fitness was not what I imagined it to be and that I should give it due attention.

Soon the ascent was over. For real. The forest faded away and the Har Ki Dun valley unfolded before my eyes like a dramatic revelation. I got the answer to my “Why did I come here” question. 

We were walking along a brown trail forged onto the sides of interconnected mountains. Clothed in green trees and capped with white snow, they sloped down to our right to join the mountains of the opposite range to form the valley. River Supin was now slow, glistening line passing through the point where the bases met. We saw Swargarohini – the route the Pandavas took to ascend to heaven. I did not feel inclined to climb it seek heaven too, though. I felt like I was already there.

Our campsite at Har Ki Dun was nestled between such gigantic mountains. It was as if the Gods were giving us a hug on reaching their abode and asking if it wasn’t too much trouble reaching here. I chuckled and said, “no, just a slight backache from the bumpy ride!”

I asked Aunty to teach me some exercises to relieve the back pain and she very kindly obliged. That’s when she revealed the reason for her concern about my ability to lift my bag. She had identified that my core was probably not very strong, and sweetly recommended that next time I do so before going on a trek. I thanked her sheepishly and promised myself that I will act on her advice.

Day 3: Excursion to Maninda Lake

This day was particularly exciting. We were going to take an excursion to Mananinda Lake. The sun was shining as brightly as my happiness at having to carry only a day pack today. Prodding on that brown trail, getting charmed by pink flowers hanging from small trees and bushes on the trail. Today will certainly be a cakewalk. As we went higher up, the wind got stronger and chillier and the mountains humbled me once again by slapping at my face goof up number 3 – number down jacket! Boy was I shivering. That flimsy windcheater turned out to be of not much help.

But just like the mountains reprimand you, they also reward you in equal measure. The valley went out of sight. I don’t know how the mountains did it, but the landscape became increasingly vast. I came to a profound realization that the world is JUST. SO. BIG. I realized that I had not thought about my squabbles. The mind started in that direction but halted its step. It decided that all that just does not matter. The enormity of the world is humbling and liberating. The mountains had bestowed upon me a new outlook and perspective. All will indeed be well, this time I felt so with conviction. 

We reached Maninda Lake. It was more like a pool of exquisitely coloured water lying at the feet of an interestingly shaped, large, bush-covered boulder. We were thrilled to dip our hands in it, mesmerized by the setting, and posed before it. We also encountered snow and had a snow fight. 

Days 4 and 5: Har ki Dun to Osla and Osla to Sankri via Taluka

We started our journey back along a slightly altered route. I will quickly rip off the band-aid and mention goof up number 4 to get done with it. In a moment of utter stupidity, I had felt wearing ankle socks with trekking shoes is a good idea. Looking at the number of nasty shoe bites, no it’s not. Moving on, we walked through the lovely little village of Osla. For a city person, such a way of life felt unfathomable. I was surprised but also delighted to see solar panels on the thatched rooftops. 

Throughout the trek realized that I should have read up about the route, the peaks, the names of the ranges, the flowers to appreciate it some more. I did zero research. All I was aware of was the existence of the temple of Duryodhan somewhere along the trail. But did not know exactly where. Even the local guides did not know. Sitting on a rock in the meadow, something just magically lifted. Idiotic kid hit that bird with a stone.

Conclusion:

Many learnings and well-deserved struggles for under-estimating trekking. But still enough to fall in love. Trekking with a heavy heart but came back lightened. Just how bad the back was, there was muscle atrophy and I had to visit a physiotherapist for 3 months to get it rectified. Got back my fleece, bought a really cool and fancy down jacket and started appreciating research more. Trekking in the Himalayas is now something I do at least once a year mandatorily. I would highly recommend to do so with the right spirit.

Coming back a changed person, found a new source of solace and also humbled by the. Rewarding and reinforcing and gives a new perspective.

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